holes on worked tree

[AndretheGiant]

Hello, everyone!
I am still here to deepen my little skills on mechanical processing
I happened to make a tree tolerated as below that it must enter a hole h7. g8 tolerance is respected, but the tree struggles to enter the 3.4 holes made of traverse, I believe because of the trunks.
I wanted to know in cases how this is the correct working cycle? is it right to make holes on the tree already worked in g8 by jeopardizing tolerance, or should the tree be pre-worked, drilled, and then to be measured?

thank you

 

[biz]

Starting from a 14 tondo, I'll make the holes first and then go back.

 

[MassiVonWeizen]

design not optimal according to me.
the hole from 3.4 must be guessed that there is another at 90°.
in both holes the depth is useless.
lacks roughness.
If the g8 is to be rectified the holes must be done before, otherwise the turning process with the presence of the holes creates vibrations in the interrupted cutting points and therefore, for me, they should be done later and who performs the holes should know how to make

 

[biz]

otherwise turning machining with holes creates vibrations in interrupted cutting points

Right. I don't think it's going to rectification, though it's lawful. Anyway, thinking about the holes better to do them after turning.

 

[AndretheGiant]

Bye. is just a drawing extract to make the question understand. is not rectified, only turned back. Therefore it is correct to drill after processing, but it is necessary to have the care not to create bave and perhaps to try it in a buffer hole

 

[TECNOMODEL]

Bye. is just a drawing extract to make the question understand. is not rectified, only turned back. Therefore it is correct to drill after processing, but it is necessary to have the care not to create bave and perhaps to try it in a buffer hole

That's right, the mustache is impossible not to do it, they must be removed.
if you need live edge should be indicated and will be removed only the bava taking care of safeguarding the edge, otherwise you make a bevel.

 

[AndretheGiant]

How would you remove the trunks to not ruin the tree in such cases? manually with glass paper?

 

[MassiVonWeizen]

Bye. is just a drawing extract to make the question understand. is not rectified, only turned back. Therefore it is correct to drill after processing, but it is necessary to have the care not to create bave and perhaps to try it in a buffer hole

If who drilled a tree tolerated g8 did not think to do drooling perhaps he is not so good.
the holes droop them with a sink. even better to put on the drawing the bevel note 0.5x45°

 

[AndretheGiant]

thanks, I will pay more attention in these cases to always put the bevel

 

[MassiVonWeizen]

precise that the value 0.5x45° is only indicative
among other things I know only now that holes not passing gift, so my comnento on the useless depth and to censor.

 

[TECNOMODEL]

How would you remove the trunks to not ruin the tree in such cases? manually with glass paper?

lima initially then abrasive stone, taking care not to affect the outer ø.
With abrasive paper you inevitably go to the edge, if the component requires that it be alive (e.g. hydraulic valve spoles) would mean to inflate the functionality of the piece.

 

[MassiVonWeizen]

there are also appropriate manual tools.
I leave a pdf of the hinders that as you see can be used also on very small diametershttp://www.sefmeccanotecnica.it/download_307/sbavatori_vargus-shaviv.pdf

 

[Steppermotor]

the noga also produces suitable tools.www.noga.itand at least from my side is very common in the hardware store.