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flangeed shirt

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I've been practicing connection problems right now.
 

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I read the discussion, the drawing is just the same but it did not clear to me completely because my problem is focused on the processing of the inner hole and the type of machine and processing to be used to execute it.
I would be grateful if you could give me more precise information about it. Thank you.
 
the "search" function, this unknown... :
Hey, mbt, I think I'm gonna have to fight you. you found the discussion but would like more information.
I read the discussion, the drawing is just the same but it did not clear to me completely because my problem is focused on the processing of the inner hole and the type of machine and processing to be used to execute it.
I would be grateful if you could give me more precise information about it. Thank you.
I honestly don't know what context you mean: Do you have to do only the hole on the existing piece?
What do you have to "destinate" the piece? What is the forum?
each processing is chosen according to the application. If you have to make a banal lightening (it doesn't seem like the case in question) go away from column drill without having to do with centring problems and tolerances.
If you have to make a calibrated hole I would go more carefully.

in any way I quote the solution of the internal turning as recommended in the mentioned post
 
Hey, mbt, I think I'm gonna have to fight you. you found the discussion but would like more information.
bhe, first he said "maybe," then he confirmed....

And anyway, remember that it's very dangerous to contradict me on Monday morning...
you risk the decapitation of the "attributes" by means of incruciating shearing or chiselling on rubber incudines (which absorbing the shock allows you to have more time available to complete "the work")
I honestly don't know what context you mean: Do you have to do only the hole on the existing piece?
What do you have to "destinate" the piece? What is the forum?
each processing is chosen according to the application. If you have to make a banal lightening (it doesn't seem like the case in question) go away from column drill without having to do with centring problems and tolerances.
If you have to make a calibrated hole I would go more carefully.

in any way I quote the solution of the internal turning as recommended in the mentioned post
then, we do so to avoid the proliferation of discussions related to the same piece....

radio moves these posts into the other discussion and we continue there? What do you say?

In the meantime, the good valeria explains to us well what goes on in that hole, if it is tolerated, that roughness is required and if there are other prescriptions ( Geometric tolerances, for example.. . )
 
thank you so much I don't really know how to thank you anyway the hole I have to do or better all the piece I have to realize starting from a stainless steel bar. the hole should not be calibrated; I thought to drill the hole with the drill and then an internal turning. the problem is that I don't know if there is a tip that allows me to drill a diameter of 51,6 mm and they did not recommend using the "mounting" drill, so I don't even know what kind of drill they use.
 
the piece is realized in the same way that I indicated for the detail in reduced scale, a few days ago in the discussion "flangeed shirt".
you just need to change the size: you just need a lathe and a drill-cracker drawn with clamp and divider with autocentre to a true axis.
 
bhe, first he said "maybe", then he confirmed....

And anyway, remember that it's very dangerous to contradict me on Monday morning...
you risk the decapitation of the "attributes" by means of incruciating shearing or chiselling on rubber incudines (which absorbing the shock allows you to have more time available to complete "the work")



then, we do so to avoid the proliferation of discussions related to the same piece....

radio moves these posts into the other discussion and we continue there? What do you say?

In the meantime, the good valeria explains to us well what goes on in that hole, if it is tolerated, that roughness is required and if there are other prescriptions ( Geometric tolerances, for example.. . )
I would never allow myself...it seemed right to point out:
thank you so much I don't really know how to thank you anyway the hole I have to do or better all the piece I have to realize starting from a stainless steel bar. the hole should not be calibrated; I thought to drill the hole with the drill and then an internal turning. the problem is that I don't know if there is a tip that allows me to drill a diameter of 51,6 mm and they did not recommend using the "mounting" drill, so I don't even know what kind of drill they use.
I'm sorry.

If you already started with your fantastic lathe I don't see why you have to remove the piece from that beautiful car (the lathe is my favorite) and put it under another.
the fact of using a drill to mount with a hole 51,6 doesn't seem very sensible...unless there is something that does it by interpolation (and I don't think the drill to mount does it)...or worse still to build a tip on purpose :eek:
from the productive point of view is a loss of time (and costs).

go turning and things are much easier.:finger:

I repeat for the umpteenth time that enri09 provided "precious" information as it works in the field and has experience on the machine
 
I would say ø51.6 tips do not find them from trade
there are insert tips that also arrive at ø60 diameter... but I don't know if it's worth it
if your piece is in "ferrazza", since you have to mount it on a parallel, I would drill ø30 (you find it from trade with conical cod to mount them directly onto the counterpoint) and then proceed with tool for interior up to the necessary diameter
 
the piece is used in a piping, a system of pipes, unfortunately I did not find better not being very expert in the matter. It is not important to specify tolerances or roughness as the fundamental element on which the project is based is the work. Sorry again for my ignorance for me it would be important to know what kind of work to do and with which machine/and perform them in such a way as to choose inserts and tools accordingly.
thanks again for your patience
 
I see you don't have very clear ideas in machine tools: tolerances and roughness are essential to choose the type of machine, processing, tool and insert to use.
example: if you have to make a cylindrical surface with h6 tolerance and 0.2 wrinkle, you are obliged to rectify, but if the same cylinder requires a wrinkle 1.6 (but also 0,8) just turn it back. this only to make a stupid example, but there are myriad variants to analyze in choosing the technological process of realization of an object.
 
So I only carry out an internal turning with a 50-point tip? and to make the finish then?
 
So I only carry out an internal turning with a 50-point tip? and to make the finish then?
the turning has no tips, has tools:tongue:

you can first drill with drill the ø50 and then fix it internal turning with tool up to ø51,6 to prevent the turning operation from last light years and not seconds
 
with na tip drills, do not turn back, however yes, first holes d=50 (the tips are on the catalogs) then turn to size with an interior tool. if the protrusion of the tool is too high, as it seems in your case, the turning up to d=51.6 will allow it to be done in the 2nd processing.
we do so: throw down a maximum processing tag (like any one I wrote in the discussion reported earlier), then see if it is the case of correcting it.
 
the turning has no tips, has tools:tongue:

you can first drill with drill the ø50 and then fix it internal turning with tool up to ø51,6 to prevent the turning operation from last light years and not seconds
I would say that it is not the case of drilling, so much the piece is mounted on the lathe!
 
I don't really have any clear ideas:confused: Sorry but I repeat this is the first time I have to deal with mechanical technology.
but to make an internal turning it is not necessary that the piece is already drilled? Professor said nothing else in class.
 
the piece is used in a piping, a system of pipes, unfortunately I did not find better not being very expert in the matter. It is not important to specify tolerances or roughness as the fundamental element on which the project is based is the work. Sorry again for my ignorance for me it would be important to know what kind of work to do and with which machine/and perform them in such a way as to choose inserts and tools accordingly.
thanks again for your patience
How "not important"? ?
Are you kidding me?
as it has already explained enri, tolerance, roughness and all the indications to contour are fundamental to decide the working cycle and machine tools to use
think if that diameter had been tolerated h5...
or +/- 0.2
what a remarkable difference in deciding the working cycle
if instead of being 51.6 had been ø50 +/- 0.3 you could have thought of drilling without resuming with the tools
If he had been conical, you would have had other needs.
If an extremely narrow cylindrical tolerance had been put, you should have bare or rectified it with internal grinding. .
but because not a 50-point mounted in the counterpoint cone....
I, at the time, had difficulty finding counterpoint tips above 30.
But maybe I had a loser supplier... I don't know.
 
the hole is drilled at the lathe by mounting the tip in the counterpoint.
Did you read the discussion flanged shirt?
more precise this post: linkthe fact that it is a little difficult to find the tips from 50 in tooling does not mean that they do not exist, especially in the catalogs that valeria will have to consult.
Of course, if I have a 30-point maximum in the workshop and I have to do a single piece, hole with that and then go back to measure.

It remains the fact that working a piece of this kind parallel with a 50 helical tip remains anachronism in 2012, but the basics of mechanical technology learn so, so wide to the old methods!
 

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