flangeed shirt

[valeria90]

to make the big hole inside I was going to drill with the corodrill tip 880 with a diameter of 27 mm and then arrive at 51.6 mm by a processing of internal turning of roughing and subsequently finishing.. Can you?
and for the holes of 12.9 mm which helical tip I recommend? If you could post it would be a great favor because on the internet I can find it. . .
thanks of heart and excuse me ignorance in the field perhaps even insistence

 

[valeria90]

pure diameter 25 mm for large hole

 

[valeria90]

excuse me enri but to make the big hole inside so I put the tip you recommended yesterday and put it in the cone counterpoint, and then hole of 50 mm. then for the 1.6 mm that remain I carry out an internal turning. Is that right?

 

[Ivan1990]

excuse me enri but to make the big hole inside so I put the tip you recommended yesterday and put it in the cone counterpoint, and then hole of 50 mm. then for the 1.6 mm that remain I carry out an internal turning. Is that right?

I think this is the best way... even if before the hole of 50 I would do one of 25.

 

[enri09]

excuse me enri but to make the big hole inside so I put the tip you recommended yesterday and put it in the cone counterpoint, and then hole of 50 mm. then for the 1.6 mm that remain I carry out an internal turning. Is that right?

That's right.

from the stem site of the catologist of that tip also cylindrical pole drills for hole from 12.9

 

[valeria90]

I would like to clarify the design I have in mind:
by grasping the piece from the conical part I should drill the inner part of the cylindrical side for a length of 64.5 mm with a final diameter of 64.5 therefore I wanted to pierce on the turret the tip to inserts corodrill 880 with diameter 27mm that drills up to a length of 108mm so that having a hole I can subsequently work with an internal turning to obtain the measurements of the diameter indicated before.
as second step I would turn the piece and I would have made the same steps with different measures (i.e. for a length of 107.5 for a diameter of 51.6)
Could it be okay anyway?

 

[enri09]

Do as you want. What do you ask if you don't take advice?
read post 12 of the discussion: You just need to update the measurements. the most correct methodology is that.

 

[enri09]

I'll write it to you.

-parts from a cylinder d=150 l=174 (cut with a sawer from a bar)
- Grab in the lathe truck
- carry out the cylindrical turning d=80.6 l=15 the shouldering and d=145.1
-execute the lathe hole d=50 and the internal turning d=64.5 and d=51.6 (using how many grinding passes you feel appropriate and 1 final finish 0.5mm)
- turn the piece and grab it in the lathe autocentre on d=80.6 or on d=145.1
- perform a cylindrical turning d=80.6 l=122.5
-execute the conical turning (breaking the longitudinal axis of the turret)
- Grab the piece in the self-center of a divider on the drill counter with internal socket on the d=51.6
-execute the 8 holes d=12.9 (for each, first with tip from centers, then with helical tip)
- Grab the piece in a clamp mounted on the drill counter,
- drill the hole d=12.9 (first with tip from centers, then with helical tip)

 

[valeria90]

ok enri really too patient I do as you say, the only doubt is on the internal tone. If I go out to the lathe the hole with the tip that you told me then I remain 1.6 mm and making the finish of 0.5 mm the roughing of what I have to do? 0.3?

 

[enri09]

to point three: d=80.6 l=32.2

 

[enri09]

I'll explain better.
- hole d=48 or 50
- d = 51
- finishing d=51.6

I recommend a maximum pass depth of 4 mm for roughing, and 0.2-0.5mm for finishing.
then consult the characteristics recommended by the manufacturer for that specifia combination of material-insert.

 

[valeria90]

thank you very much enri you are very kind, for the processing of the 8 holes I searched on the internet this tip from centers http://www.gnuttibortolo.com/jsp/sc...id_tipo=ut23&id_sotto_tipo=ut85&id_art=11623# e questa tip elicoidale http://www.gnuttibortolo.com/jsp/sc...d_tipo=ut23&id_sotto_tipo=ut109&id_art=11434# are good even if the nn helical tip reaches exactly 12.9?

 

[enri09]

perfect.
The center tip is fine with d=8.
for the helical tip you have to indicate one from 12.9.

 

[SHIREN]

saying that working a piece on the plug is a practical way is a real background: first you have to drill the piece, then make the plug, mount the plug to the press, work the outside between tip and counterpoint, disassemble the plug to the press, grab on 80.6, and perform the external turning (I want to see how you do the 64.5, unless you do it before mounting the plug).
I forgot: it is also necessary between one processing and the other to disassemble the autocentre to put the menabrida disc, then to put on the autocentre to finish the internal processing.
really practical, nothing but say

the piece only kills him if you take it with the tempered clamps.
If you use soft clamps turned to size using a rivel it does not stick properly.
with turned clamps besides it is not a problem to get between the first and the second concentric processing of the order of a few cents, and anyway I would say that the cone does not matter is centered with the rest: if the piece was made by a fusion or a printed one would most likely remain raw.
no plug, for such a piece is an absolute loss of time, and besides, how do you think to make the finish of the d=51.6 which is a h7 with ra 0.8 without grabbing on 80.6 for fear of catching it? do you really think you can guarantee some coaxiality of the hole with the outside?
If you run 145.1 80.6, the 51.6 hole and the 64.5 shot in a single socket, you are sure of their concentricity, then turn the piece and grab on 80.6 or 145.1, and if the cone comes a few cents out of center amen.

the holes on the flange are made by putting the piece "standing" on the divider's spindle, using an internal socket on 51.6.
the radial hole by putting the piece "drawn" in the clamp.
clearly first center hole then hole with 12,9 tip.[/quot

1)You can't drill directly with a 12.9 tip
the hole is min.13
2) but you are sure of what you write
in fact there are geometric inconsistencies that leave completely perplexed
The rest is hard for me to carp or give a sense of operation.
even if I then justify everything by saying that there are no famous €
Thank you very much

 

[enri09]

1) Why can't I drill from 12.9? the diameter of the hole if the tip is sharp correctly coincides with the nominal diameter of the tip.

2) Yes, there are a couple of errors in the maeesggio you have listed, I indicated them in the next post: at the second row it was not external turning, but internal turning.

I have not understood what is difficult to understand, in my opinion the sense of operativity is less when it is recommended to work on plug a piece that can be easily worked on autocentre.
I add: working the outside on the plug, hardly the finishing of the hole will be coaxial on the outside (let's talk about cents, be clear), without considering that to do that processing however you have to grasp on 80.6.

 

[valeria90]

thank you so much to all I have almost completed the project, only that I do not know how to choose the depth of past and advancement... on the sandvik catalog there are no recommended depths

 

[enri09]

for each insert are indicated cutting speed, depth of pass and advancement, look better.

 

[valeria90]

I'm sorry, isn't that someone has videos that aren't taken from the internet on the drilling performed with a drill-fresh?

 

[tortellino]

I'm so sorry, dear friend.
I have prepared mechanical technology (in its time) studying books and going to make me explain things in workshops, some craftsman who had lathe and milling.
simple people, very often without even the third media.

at the time there were not all the technologies of today (digital cameras, mobile phones with camera, webcam etc.).

It weighs you so much to enter a workshop and tell the craftsman that you find in "please, you can turn on that.... When I shoot you? ".

Then, in the end, you pay him a grappa and go on a par.

I think. If I don't understand anything, then I apologize. .

 

[enri09]

I'm so sorry, dear friend.
I have prepared mechanical technology (in its time) studying books and going to make me explain things in workshops, some craftsman who had lathe and milling.
simple people, very often without even the third media.

at the time there were not all the technologies of today (digital cameras, mobile phones with camera, webcam etc.).

It's so hard for you to get into a workshop and tell the craftsman that you find in it, "please, can you turn on that frickin' mill while I shoot you? ".

Then, in the end, you pay him a grappa and go on a par.

I think. If I don't understand anything, then I apologize. .

apart from tones and the way, I fully agree with tortellino.
give a technology examination without studying or entering the workshop to see machine tools, I find it a little exaggerated.