help! what 3d printer?

[176]

I've been following you for a while and I have to congratulate you on the forum! I can't hide that I've been useful since I tried to learn caia :smile:
now I am struggling with a new fantasy; I ask you a question:
I would need to print the 3d model of a two-time engine cylinder, but functional model, since it would later be used for the ground casting of the piece.
which printer advise me (calculating that it is more a whim than a necessity of vital importance)?
Of course I should print the inner soul too, so it should be able to print different types of material (what do you recommend me? )
thanks to all of you!

 

[IPdesign]

Bye-bye

if the goal is then to make a fusion you have to orientate on a sacrificial stereo .
I recommend you to contact those who do this service, they will certainly provide you with more information

 

[176]

Bye-bye

if the goal is then to make a fusion you have to orientate on a sacrificial stereo .
I recommend you to contact those who do this service, they will certainly provide you with more information

Hi, I'm sorry about my huge ignorance, but what do you mean by a sacrificial stereo? :redface:
In the area (milano) I don't know anyone who does rapid prototyping for stereolitography, would you know how to tell me someone?

ps:I saw you use nx6. not knowing him absolutely, how is it compared to catia? Is he a plm?

 

[maxopus]

It's like the lost wax technique, realize the piece in stereo, insert it into the sand and casting replaces the sintered material.

 

[AlfaProtech]

Hi.
the ability to make a pattern for your merger naturally there is. It is not strictly necessary to use stereolithography as they have already told you because now models can be printed (with much higher resolutions and with much more refined and regular walls of stereo models) both in wax and acrylic resins with low ash content.
in wax you could turn to those who produce models with 3dsystems projet cpx for the goldsmith industry (I don't know what size you need). If your size is larger than the same machines (hd3000 projet or 5000) can produce your acrylic resin model with really excellent results. then there are sintering machines of powders (nylon) that can do it but with aesthetic qualities and dimensional fidelity decidedly different. I personally owned the projets but for various reasons I sold and currently I could also produce your model in acrylic meltable resin but with a different machine. in this case the surface of your model would have a slightly higher roughness, but perhaps for a motor head does not count. However wax models you can make them produce also by those who have friezes for goldsmiths.

 

[avalon3d]

bhe, at this point why not create a sand shell directly from 3d?
What material did you mean to use?

 

[176]

Well I still have to choose the alloy, however it is always nice aluminum loaded with silicon.

alfaprotech cylinder size is about 100x120x95. As for the milling of the model rather than the molding are skeptical, even a 5-axis cad/cam I think it is impossible to faithfully copy the design. there are several visible ducts only by dissecting the design, therefore impossible to reach with the milling.

rather a forum user is selling a 310 zprinter printer (gesso). How could I be useful? :smile:
I always remember that, unfortunately, I know less than a chicken knows about mathematics:frown:

 

[AlfaProtech]

zcorp plaster printers can now give you a nice conceptual model thanks to the fact that the stratification is quite thin and the resolution on the xy high plane. you don't have much to do to clean your piece, indeed, the machine has with it also the cleaning module. you should then impregnate the piece made of epoxy resin to give structure, resistance and leave the smooth surfaces. If you don't do this your model, for the truth quite wrinkled, it would break easily. beautiful, and unique, the possibility of coloring prints, great for solidifying stress diagrams on structures, or those of temperature. In all this, however, you take into account that 310 is almost the "base" model of the family, so the colors do not have it and the resolution is a little low, it seems to me. But it seems to me that with these printers you can directly pull out of the molds to lose for castings, fico.ma I don't know what made.

 

[176]

you should then impregnate the piece made of epoxy resin to give structure, resistance and leave the smooth surfaces. If you don't do this your model, for the truth quite wrinkled, it would break easily.

and once impregnated with epoxy resin with what method is melting? and to whom I could turn for such an operation, calculating that the idea is to produce about 30/40 pieces?
wrinkles do not affect me in any way, since before the lathe/work center work I will have to sand the piece to make it a little more uniform and "carino"
The only thing I really care about is the precision (making melt, a few tenth more or a few tenth less is understood) of the cylinder's internal ducts, i.e. the beams and the exhaust light.
I forgot, as material I opted for the alsi9cu, of course tempered.

ps: thanks to all of you for the interest and patience you bring towards the undersigned goat:smile::smile::smile: