repair copper pipe

[tecnico_plast]

Bye to all,
I should repair the copper pipes that have been folded, in particular it is a couple of ø12 mm tubes for the installation of the radiators, and a ø14 mm tube of the gas plant kitchen.
the pipes had been left protruding from the wall for about 15 cm, ready for assembly, but some "animal" thought well to bend them.
I have not yet verified whether the copper is actually clinched, but I think it is, and I would like to understand how to repair the damage, especially with regard to the gas tube that emerges from the wall just in correspondence of the stove.
someone told me that the best solution would cut the ruined part of the pipe and weld a new brush, others instead advised me to use the appropriate fittings for the copper pipes. In both cases, you will have to run the wall slightly, but I wonder if there will be space to weld everything around the tube without doing too much damage to the wall: eek:
in any case, what would be the best solution?

 

[riccardot5765]

I would avoid pressure joints, therefore opting for a welding.

more precisely I would opt for a strong brazing.

 

[tecnico_plast]

say that because joints are not sure?

welding in the specific case could be a problem because you should do doing a small dig in the wall, so the maneuver spaces could be insufficient to weld everything around the pipe.
but this is my assumption, maybe then you can do it without problems.. .

 

[riccardot5765]

I do not say that the joints are not sure. But I still see them as a possible weakness. I think instead that with a joint to weld and an oxyethylene cannello you get a better job. because the use of the pipe is not even necessary a welding, but only a weak brazing. practically is like having a single piece tube.

 

[Iceman7]

I agree with richrdot5765, in fact also in the air conditioning systems it is used quietly weld even in the installations (it often happens that some "animal" pieghi
or break the pipes...)

 

[tecnico_plast]

Okay, thank you for the advice, let's hope that to repair the excavations in the wall are minimal. .

 

[maxopus]

The thing that worries me is the gas tube.
must be a unique trait without joints and if the plumber is not a beast inserted it in a yellow corrugated.
In this way, for any inconvenience, you can parade and replace without breaking walls or floors (with its screed).
If he didn't do that... I'd make him do the job from scratch at his expense.

 

[tecnico_plast]

the gas hose is a unique trait that starts from the balcony, passes through the wall and under the floor and pops up on the wall where the hob should stand, and it is precisely them that was bent.
It's covered with a yellow sheath, but I don't think you can parade and reposition as you do with electric cables.

 

[maxopus]

from that sheath does not shove it, to me that tube passes in a yellow corrugated that is just like that of electric wires (obviously bigger), so you can parade.

 

[tecnico_plast]

from that sheath does not shove it, to me that tube passes in a yellow corrugated that is just like that of electric wires (obviously bigger), so you can parade.

In fact, the only solution is to cut the folded tract, and perhaps without welding or using fittings, to get it out of the wall from a lower point.

 

[maxopus]

In fact, the only solution is to cut the folded tract, and perhaps without welding or using fittings, to get it out of the wall from a lower point.

Yes, it would be better to cut it and connect it directly to the tap.
at the limit you will have to put a nipple between tap and fitting if it turns out too short.

 

[riccardot5765]

let him go down more but it would mean to discard not little the wall and even the tiles. In my opinion, you could also pinch around the wall and cut the part, which you said to be enveloped anyway. At this point, however, it seems more complicated, given the spaces, go to sight. brazing instead happens for capillarity and you can also vertically. to me it seems that heating the part with reed is faster and easier.

 

[tecnico_plast]

let him go down more but it would mean to discard not little the wall and even the tiles. In my opinion, you could also pinch around the wall and cut the part, which you said to be enveloped anyway. At this point, however, it seems more complicated, given the spaces, go to sight. brazing instead happens for capillarity and you can also vertically. to me it seems that heating the part with reed is faster and easier.

Yes, you should take a couple of tiles, but still the "damage" would be behind the kitchen, when it will be mounted.

a couple of tiles must be removed or pinched anyway.
Please explain how these fittings work to weld?

 

[riccardot5765]

Of course. are fittings that are grafted on the ink tube ending at a glass. the operation is very simple and requires nothing special.

first you have to clean the parts of pipe and fitting that will go in contact with sandpaper not too fine, until they are beautiful glossy and a little lined (bastano 15'').
Brush on those parts the decapant paste and then plug the sleeve on the tube by cleaning the paste that eventually emerges.
warm with the cannello a little before the joint, no matter how much but just that the flame does not touch the junction point. for this operation just a simple cannellino from home.
As soon as the copper has become cherry red you have to remove the flame and then, this time right on the junction, you go to rest the pond turning around the tube as much as possible.

keep in mind that the result will not be a welding cord, but the tin, which in contact the roving copper becomes liquid, creeps by capillarity between the two surfaces. If, for example, the part should cool, at the next heating it may seem to you that the pond put before went away, but actually melted again, the part that in the first soldering was exceeded and the brazing goes well too.

Two things. the decapant paste is not necessary, but being gas tube I would use it; its purpose is to further clean the parts to favor the taking of the pond. basically the purpose is to remove the fat residues that remain after processing. once a plumber, without decapant, immersed the tube in a little acid after scratching it and that brazing still keeps.

 

[tecnico_plast]

thanks for the explanation.

 

[maxopus]

After the operation, press the tube and test the old way with soapy water

 

[tecnico_plast]

After the operation, press the tube and test the old way with soapy water

Of course, it will be done on all joints of the plant:finger:

 

[MBT]

I know what a risk of being a tick, but there are special sprays to test plant losses
and you will say... The good old soap works nicely! Why should I take chemicals?
Well... for a small experience I had, sprays "mark" smaller losses than those found with soap and water. . .

 

[maxopus]

I know what a risk of being a tick, but there are special sprays to test plant losses
and you will say... The good old soap works nicely! Why should I take chemicals?
Well... for a small experience I had, sprays "mark" smaller losses than those found with soap and water. . .

You're probably right.
It's that I'm a little rustic and when I did this job (25 years ago) we used archaic methods and worked in a Southern aziendina where we had no eyes to cry.
when in winter the temperature was lowered, the means (excavator and ruspa) were so old that they did not make it to start for the cold (however speak of temperatures above zero).
We used to detach the suction tube and turn on the gas cooker to suck the engine hot air.... and the means departed.
the skulls were so old that they often scarred, and down with a crowbar and the iron poles to put them on between unrepeatable blasphemies.

I was just over 20 years old, I was a worker, I never had a lira, the calli on my hands looked like a carpenter of 60 years and I remember that as one of the most beautiful periods of my life.

 

[MBT]

You're probably right.
It's that I'm a little rustic and when I did this job (25 years ago) we used archaic methods and worked in a Southern aziendina where we had no eyes to cry.
when in winter the temperature was lowered, the means (excavator and ruspa) were so old that they did not make it to start for the cold (however speak of temperatures above zero).
We used to detach the suction tube and turn on the gas cooker to suck the engine hot air.... and the means departed.
the skulls were so old that they often scarred, and down with a crowbar and the iron poles to put them on between unrepeatable blasphemies.

I was just over 20 years old, I was a worker, I never had a lira, the calli on my hands looked like a carpenter of 60 years and I remember that as one of the most beautiful periods of my life.

ah, well... if we go of amarcord, while being younger than you, I remember with nostalgia when to put in motion the mule in the morning of winter (but on us was well subzero), you had to unmadonnare with ether, gasoline and cannello. . .
and then work for 8 hours (it was in turn...) going every 15-20 minutes to "freeze" the hands on the hydraulic control unit of the lathe
or all the wonders that were invented, a few years later, to save money in repairs to the customer who had to set up the car but could not afford a repair "seria". . .

but what do you want, max... times change. once it repaired, today it replaces!