TECNOMODEL
Guest
Can't zip them up?
so anyone can open them and give you his contribution.
If you prefer to keep it confidential, write to me in mp that I give you an email to send them to.
so anyone can open them and give you his contribution.
If you prefer to keep it confidential, write to me in mp that I give you an email to send them to.
Kattivo83
Guest
Are you sharing experience with me and I'm going to do the precious thing?? ? ?
It's not me!
was that I didn't know you could add attachments.
Here they are, I wait for feedback.View attachment Prova_Ganci.rar
It's not me!
was that I didn't know you could add attachments.
Here they are, I wait for feedback.View attachment Prova_Ganci.rar
TECNOMODEL
Guest
the first thing I see at a quick glance is that, in my opinion, the piece remains in part fixed to you.
I would do a third plate to "put" the dowels first, then open and the piece stays in mobile and you can extract it
I would do a third plate to "put" the dowels first, then open and the piece stays in mobile and you can extract it
Kattivo83
Guest
sincerely, thinking in the perspective that with the withdrawal the piece strings, I assumed that it would remain in part mobile since both the hooks and the central diameter close the.
to do what you say I should reverse the plates, correct? Do I put the dowels behind a plate m controlled by springs?
to do what you say I should reverse the plates, correct? Do I put the dowels behind a plate m controlled by springs?
TECNOMODEL
Guest
the problem is that each of those dowels does a hole in the piece, so these pick up and the piece remains attached to these.
the plates should not be reversed, you should add a fixed one, with springs that make it open before the opening of the furniture. in this way you can parade the dowels and free the piece that will remain in mobile.
If you can post even the finished piece you can think better, maybe you find another more economical solution.
the plates should not be reversed, you should add a fixed one, with springs that make it open before the opening of the furniture. in this way you can parade the dowels and free the piece that will remain in mobile.
If you can post even the finished piece you can think better, maybe you find another more economical solution.
Kattivo83
Guest
I would like to avoid the third plate to economize everything.... among other things, sincerely, to avoid what you predicted happened, I thought I was going to leave the card to play of the dot of restraint on the walls you see highlighted in this image.
Anyway, I also attach the component step.
View attachment Anello.rar
Anyway, I also attach the component step.
View attachment Anello.rarTECNOMODEL
Guest
I mean, would you like to do a dot on that wall?
I don't think he can win the shot that gives him those holes.
p.s. put the ring back, there is nothing inside
I don't think he can win the shot that gives him those holes.
p.s. put the ring back, there is nothing inside
Kattivo83
Guest
TECNOMODEL
Guest
continues to be empty, check export options.
Kattivo83
Guest
I tried to extract it and reopen it with solidworks (which is not the sw from which I take it and see it).
Want another format? Tell me what.
Want another format? Tell me what.
TECNOMODEL
Guest
I use inventor, if you have that.
otherwise try in iges
otherwise try in iges
Kattivo83
Guest
TECNOMODEL
Guest
I see it now.
I'll confirm my idea, stay on the table.
even if you add the points.
the solutions are 2, the third plate or a mold with 2 trolleys that free that subsquadro.
In that way you can also delete the holes if you want.
Indeed, it's 3. You can always use the extractors I mentioned at the beginning of the discussion.
other thing, with those holes and injections as you put them most likely you will find flow welding lines right between the holes and the outside.
currency if it can be a problem, depends on the work you have to do the piece and the aesthetic degree you have to get.
Last but not least, I wouldn't do them like that.
better trapezoidal, up to 0.5/1 mm from the footprint and then enter with a small channel.
even better a nice ring injection.
but these evaluations must be done knowing the material you need to print.
I'll confirm my idea, stay on the table.
even if you add the points.
the solutions are 2, the third plate or a mold with 2 trolleys that free that subsquadro.
In that way you can also delete the holes if you want.
Indeed, it's 3. You can always use the extractors I mentioned at the beginning of the discussion.
other thing, with those holes and injections as you put them most likely you will find flow welding lines right between the holes and the outside.
currency if it can be a problem, depends on the work you have to do the piece and the aesthetic degree you have to get.
Last but not least, I wouldn't do them like that.
better trapezoidal, up to 0.5/1 mm from the footprint and then enter with a small channel.
even better a nice ring injection.
but these evaluations must be done knowing the material you need to print.
Kattivo83
Guest
I will then opt for the third plate, the trolleys I gladly avoid. (do/do realize that this would be the third injection mold that I project in my life).
Do you want me to answer the extractor solution? Like I said, I don't get it.
for the injection channel because trapezioidale is better than the round? how do you choose the section?
the chosen material will be the pom, I need a self-lubricating.
Give me lumens I already owe you a beer.
Do you want me to answer the extractor solution? Like I said, I don't get it.
for the injection channel because trapezioidale is better than the round? how do you choose the section?
the chosen material will be the pom, I need a self-lubricating.
Give me lumens I already owe you a beer.
TECNOMODEL
Guest
Do you mean the inclined extractors?
from one eye to the manufacturers' catalogues, find excellent products including card where you can understand how they work.
the section of the trapezoidal you write in the trapeze the circle of diameter appropriate to feed the grams of the piece in the required times.
I don't understand that I need a self-lubrication, do you mean you chose the pom for that?
from one eye to the manufacturers' catalogues, find excellent products including card where you can understand how they work.
the section of the trapezoidal you write in the trapeze the circle of diameter appropriate to feed the grams of the piece in the required times.
I don't understand that I need a self-lubrication, do you mean you chose the pom for that?
Kattivo83
Guest
for the inclined extractors you are right, we had already talked about it. Can you tell me why it's better than the round? I'm fighting for the round because I put less time in the car, not for anything else... .
for the self-lubricating answer is exact, I chose the pom for the characteristics of self-lubricating and low friction.
for the self-lubricating answer is exact, I chose the pom for the characteristics of self-lubricating and low friction.
TECNOMODEL
Guest
the circular section is great, but yours is semicircular.
the circular you have to do it even in fixed using some trick to prevent the matarozza from remaining on the wrong side.
the trapezoidal compared to the semicircular has the advantage of having less cold area at equal hot vein.
Therefore throw away less material with the bat.
do not enter the perspective of saving something in the processing, the mold must make when it goes on the press.
if you also save half an hour in the equipment then throw 2/3 grams each printed at the end of the year you put us back.
Also eye those injection points, absolutely avoid those cones.
And then that madness like you take off? by hand it has a cost, I would think of a capillary or a submarine so that the piece is already divided by the matar.
of course the evaluation should be done knowing the pieces to print, if you have to make 1000 is an account, already with 10000 changes, if then they are 100000....
the circular you have to do it even in fixed using some trick to prevent the matarozza from remaining on the wrong side.
the trapezoidal compared to the semicircular has the advantage of having less cold area at equal hot vein.
Therefore throw away less material with the bat.
do not enter the perspective of saving something in the processing, the mold must make when it goes on the press.
if you also save half an hour in the equipment then throw 2/3 grams each printed at the end of the year you put us back.
Also eye those injection points, absolutely avoid those cones.
And then that madness like you take off? by hand it has a cost, I would think of a capillary or a submarine so that the piece is already divided by the matar.
of course the evaluation should be done knowing the pieces to print, if you have to make 1000 is an account, already with 10000 changes, if then they are 100000....
Kattivo83
Guest
Unfortunately here in the workshop we have no electroerosion, so no submarines. I'd take that off with the delayed extraction system. I use it often and it works. As for the section, I think I do not know the criteria necessary to understand the extent that the madness must have, I am not in the condition of understanding even the speech of the cold zone... .
TECNOMODEL
Guest
something doesn't come back... .
before you said it's the third injection mold you do, now you say you often use the delayed injection system
However, if you can't make the capillary, you can opt for a submarine.
I link you to a product that would suit you, there are others on the market
http://ecom.meusburger.com/e/index.asp?id=141&rnd=63716a curiosity, how do you plan a injection mold well if you don't know how the molding material behaves?
how to correctly size everything? I mean injection points, mat if you use it, mold conditioning etc...
before you said it's the third injection mold you do, now you say you often use the delayed injection system
However, if you can't make the capillary, you can opt for a submarine.
I link you to a product that would suit you, there are others on the market
http://ecom.meusburger.com/e/index.asp?id=141&rnd=63716a curiosity, how do you plan a injection mold well if you don't know how the molding material behaves?
how to correctly size everything? I mean injection points, mat if you use it, mold conditioning etc...
Kattivo83
Guest
I'll explain. before I started doing it, a former colleague designed molds, and he showed me how to make the retarded extraction system. I don't know either. I realize I don't know the fundamentals.