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drawing of a tree of a reducer

  • Thread starter Thread starter J ax
  • Start date Start date
the axial bond of the toothed wheel from the "free" bearing part is assured only by the seeger?
 
As for the sampling, I didn't do it because if something was wrong then I had to delete everything and become a pastrocchio.

For the rest of the case, do you mean which part of the case? because to do everything I should do the other 2 trees.

What do you mean by axes in the sunbeds?

the quarry for the tongue to connect the toothed wheel is right to do so "in the middle of the tree" or had to do it on the top in contact with the toothed wheel?(I don't know if I explained)
missing the centres drawn in the sunbeds of the tabs. you can put it on or on the front, as you want, as long as you represent it right. Can you draw a whole gearbox? a tree so fine to itself does not mean anything:finger: It's like knowing the alphabet and a few words, now you have to make a phrase of complete meaning... that is the reducer.
 
the axial bond of the toothed wheel from the "free" bearing part is assured only by the seeger?
would be a spacer that and in class it was done like this.



As for the whole gearbox, I don't know if we have to do it all, next week I'm going to get in touch
 
would be a spacer that and in class it was done like this.



As for the whole gearbox, I don't know if we have to do it all, next week I'm going to get in touch
I think you have to do it for yourself the whole reducer... then not on two sheets reached with the scotch... Come on.
 
small ot: since I have to do the drawing exam, and since the chirone-torncasa does too much talk and few facts, someone can advise me a real bible on which can study and acquire a good preparation? Thank you.
 
small ot: since I have to do the drawing exam, and since the chirone-torncasa does too much talk and few facts, someone can advise me a real bible on which can study and acquire a good preparation? Thank you.
definitely the vademecum for designers and technicians - baldassini - hoepli.

the collection of standards uni m1 general volume and mechanical volume are useful.

if you want to study and find the 3 volumes that I mentioned in another post: from project to product - paravia
 
definitely the vademecum for designers and technicians - baldassini - hoepli.

the collection of standards uni m1 general volume and mechanical volume are useful.

if you want to study and find the 3 volumes that I mentioned in another post: from project to product - paravia
OK, but I don't want to spend too much money, since already the two volumes of the house cost me 80 heuri. So, what do you recommend between the two? I need above all a book that has many examples and exercises done, because the theory is everywhere.
 
Maybe I exaggerated talking about axial constraints and I ask vein to the "future engineer", to set up your design, maybe you could use the design of a similar tree?
 
OK, but I don't want to spend too much money, since already the two volumes of the house cost me 80 heuri. So, what do you recommend between the two? I need above all a book that has many examples and exercises done, because the theory is everywhere.
3 volumes from project to product, have many examples of all mechanics. If you don't want to spend, you need to see what you find on the net, dispenses and notes
 
3 volumes from project to product, have many examples of all mechanics. If you don't want to spend, you need to see what you find on the net, dispenses and notes
so would this last book be better than the vademecum for designers and technicians?
 
Well, as you said in some discussion, I don't want to become an engineer studying on web-based material
great :finger: but if you think about it, there is a nuance in my speech... If you take it for your benefit, otherwise patience.

for drawing books, try to look at what you find second-hand type at the libraccio or similar... there is to get rid of and above all at low costs.
 
so would this last book be better than the vademecum for designers and technicians?
hi snaroz, vademecum is useful especially for practice/procession. I recommend the book that mentioned mechanicsmg. At least you do a general culture.

You know I'm almost gonna buy it, too? :biggrin:

edit: try on amazoon! I the baldassini from 39€ paid it 27€
 
I wanted to know another thing about the "drawing" I had attached in post #37 on page 4 of this discussion: on the right I made the case (the one above and under the bearings) and a lid connected to the case through screws. I wanted to know if I need to make 2 separate pieces (cass and lid) or if, always on the right side, I could do a single piece
 
I wanted to know another thing about the "drawing" I had attached in post #37 on page 4 of this discussion: on the right I made the case (the one above and under the bearings) and a lid connected to the case through screws. I wanted to know if I need to make 2 separate pieces (cass and lid) or if, always on the right side, I could do a single piece
case and cover, have two different names, are two different pieces. the lid is used to hold a bearing, not to let him enter dirty, not to let out oil. the case is a housing of several mechanical parts and it should also be thought that you can not work from the inside. I repeat, it would be the case that I drew and designed a whole gearbox and you would understand by yourself that certain things cannot be done:finger:
 
Here, I managed to "talk" something.
Could I know if he could go? if I've forgotten some lines or components?
 

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always referring to the last design I had scanned, I was told, just below the bolt all up, to place a plug to allow to correctly center the two half.
As for the plug quarry, can I make a blind hole on both the "semi-carter" of the reducer, or on a half of the reducer's case I have to do a passing hole and on the other hand a blind one?
I hope I've explained
 
always referring to the last design I had scanned, I was told, just below the bolt all up, to place a plug to allow to correctly center the two half.
As for the plug quarry, can I make a blind hole on both the "semi-carter" of the reducer, or on a half of the reducer's case I have to do a passing hole and on the other hand a blind one?
I hope I've explained
the two lids of the reducer must be centered with 2 thorns. It is not said that it must be in that view and in that section.

there are many ways to plant the plug (in alesed hole). If blind from both sides, you don't lose your plug around. if passing hole + blind hole you lose it however it is also easier to extract it if it remains planted.
 

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