ste8
Guest
hi marco and still thank you,
o-ring locations moved as from your design of some millimeter.
For the other matter, for now I prefer to keep it like this!
Thank you again!
Hi.
o-ring locations moved as from your design of some millimeter.
For the other matter, for now I prefer to keep it like this!
Thank you again!
Hi.
meccanicamg
Guest
It is a very strange thing to do. It's the screws you used to make the caps. you should use specific oil caps like these http://www.elesa.com/scheda_it_1_7558_71_5.aspxthen if you want to do the professional and you want to exaggerate you can put an oil level indicator http://www.elesa.com/scheda_it_1_7405_71_5.aspx so on any occasion you know whether there is oil or not in your reducer, to avoid putting control rods and similar things.
linch
Guest
but oil seals because you don't download them from the skf site, and you don't put them in the right way?
Hi.
Hi.
ste8
Guest
Hello mechanicalmg,
thank you for the compliments, but the greater part of the merit is yours, I only reported in solid your advice, trying to use my head too to choose the best and most appropriate to my situation!
returning to us,
1) I have seen the caps you recommended, but so would you recommend replacing all 4 caps with already prepared caps? To me it seems a little too "excessive" and precise, you say no?
2) regarding screws, I have inserted m5x25 screws for fixing the covers to the two saws; I then put screws m20x45 for imitation and discharge holes oil and screws m20x??? (I have not yet chosen them, to avoid having to change them more and more times) for fixing the two semicasses.
As for the fixing plugs, I have inserted one at the top and one at the bottom (m5x50). Would you like to change something?
3) I was also thinking of oil level control, but in my humble opinion, I think it is excessive (for this type of school project) the use of specific plugs already ready. I would still like to have oil control and this would be my idea:
I saw, turning on the internet, a screw placed halfway through one of the two semicasses, used as oil control. in practice I have a doubt about its use: But if the rink and the reducer is still full of oil, don't I get a good dose? and I would only need to check if there was still oil at that height, without being able to understand whether there is more or less. I would therefore like to discard this application.
I thought to put in a threaded hole (or even not threaded and then fixed with screws) a "cover" with a transparent "window". Now, assuming that I don't know if it's a viable road, I'd like to know what material to do the "window."
I hope to have explained, in any case I place an image of my "idea".
Thank you so much and good evening!
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ste8
Guest
Hi linch,
Thanks for the answer.
the seals that I have inserted in the 2 "strong" covers crossed by the trees, were discharged from the skf. regarding the assembly, unfortunately no one, and I repeat no one, in this course or in the previous ones, explained how to mount them. especially before listening to your advice, I didn't even know that these seals existed! Unfortunately in high school I did not make a trip, but a scientific high school, so for me the design of any type of machinery and also the design of mechanical applications is a novelty of these early years of university (I am to the third year).
I hope you want to enlighten me on how to properly mount the seals; I followed the skf catalog for assembly, but I can certainly have made some mistakes!
thanks and hello
steak
cacciatorino
Guest
on the list:
http://www.elesa.it/catalogo_it_1_71_12_0.aspxfind these level indicators beautiful and ready.
m5x25 screws are too small, put them m8 or m10, in number 6 or 8 for each flange. Consider that a m5 thread is torn very easily if it goes into the hands of a mechanic not too "sensitive".
Bye.
cacciatorino
Guest
you learn something every day! :biggrin:
If I think of all the years I've spent drawing them by hand....:frown:
ste8
Guest
1) screws, ok I will replace them with m8 or m10, maybe 8 for flange.
2) I saw the indicators. I'll consider them. my idea, however, was to draw something "less complex" and less professional, however you almost convinced me :biggrin: I will insert it!
3) Is the fitting of the seals wrong??? How can I change them? ?
Thank you again!
cacciatorino
Guest
I think it's good too, but we're going down on the ground of personal preferences. a change that you could make would be to put a support edge for the oil, so that when mounted with the press it goes in line, so it is perfectly in the picture.
I also told you I would put on the trees an anti-wearing mouth, also given the continuous service to which the apparatus is intended, but being a school work you can also survivor.
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sampom
Guest
Those "transparent patches" will heighten the level (half window), so you can't miss it more or less.. arrive there:biggrin:
and it is not "too much for a simple didactic design". too much would be to build things that exist already ready and economic. when possible use always commercial/unified material.
..and by force. Who'd seen the Internet or the "electronic charts"?
think that from far 1979 to the "recent" 2002 I only and always designed everything by hand to china:biggrin:.
greetings
Marco:smile:
sampom
Guest
ste8
Guest
I was wondering the same thing...
Shoulder/shipping go inside or out?
cacciatorino
Guest
If you're not subject to internal pressure, that's all right, so you just need a stupid screwdriver to change it!
This thing will be lubricated, so... all the car and motorcycle gearboxes I've had to deal with anyway.
the edge inside facilitates the correct alignment when replacing it.
meccanicamg
Guest
1) Oil plugs are for loading and unloading at the first link I sent you. the indicators, the simplest (transparent circle with ball floating) are at the second link I sent you. If you register (free) you can download the 3d and import them as they are. is material accessible to all
2) m5 or m6 screws for lids can go well if you put many, but it is preferable to put 4 or 6 screws for lid m8/m10. I would say that m20 is excessive and I would turn to m8/m10/m12. ø5x50 thorns are too thin and too long. for an optimal centering on a reducer of about 500 mm height 200 of width, I would say that at least thorns from ø10 or ø12 are prefer to facilitate the centage by hand since the cents of play on those diameters is greater than the 5 nominal ones. the plug holes can also make them blind and put a short plug (20/30 mm) and does not necessarily need the passage of the entire thickness.
3) Oil control, there is commercial material.. .it is not worth inventing even at school level...they know all those who clench on chainsaws, deceivers, agricultural machinery, professional machinery and obbistics that there are these "oil stones" in plastic from trade. the screw placed at a certain height, very old oil level system: oil loads until a drop falls from the hole. when this happens stop loading oil (see application of the gearbox/frying of the wasp piaggio - not scooters)
I repeat the concept that it is not worth inventing the oil level window. the material must resist the oil, it must not be corrupted and must be transparent. there are several plastic polymers that have these characteristics, but you need to consult some tabs and then you become one thing by specialists. the indicator by trade, there is, is made as from catalog, it is used :smile:
2) m5 or m6 screws for lids can go well if you put many, but it is preferable to put 4 or 6 screws for lid m8/m10. I would say that m20 is excessive and I would turn to m8/m10/m12. ø5x50 thorns are too thin and too long. for an optimal centering on a reducer of about 500 mm height 200 of width, I would say that at least thorns from ø10 or ø12 are prefer to facilitate the centage by hand since the cents of play on those diameters is greater than the 5 nominal ones. the plug holes can also make them blind and put a short plug (20/30 mm) and does not necessarily need the passage of the entire thickness.
3) Oil control, there is commercial material.. .it is not worth inventing even at school level...they know all those who clench on chainsaws, deceivers, agricultural machinery, professional machinery and obbistics that there are these "oil stones" in plastic from trade. the screw placed at a certain height, very old oil level system: oil loads until a drop falls from the hole. when this happens stop loading oil (see application of the gearbox/frying of the wasp piaggio - not scooters)
I repeat the concept that it is not worth inventing the oil level window. the material must resist the oil, it must not be corrupted and must be transparent. there are several plastic polymers that have these characteristics, but you need to consult some tabs and then you become one thing by specialists. the indicator by trade, there is, is made as from catalog, it is used :smile:
sampom
Guest
Yes, I do. or if they are particularly planted in place 2 forellini and two vines parker (until) to mo' d'extractor:biggrin:.
but if I have to make the joke so much it is worth doing it for any pressure, even if in this case there are not (it is not a rule, but I prefer so). Of course I have to remove lids for replacement.. but at that point it costs me little and control/pulisco everything better including internal or (although I do not have to replace the bearings, that there would be obligatory).
@ste8 it was said just above using the oil to "double lip":
..they are better in relation to the small price difference and they make you dust from the outside.greetings
Marco:smile:
linch
Guest
Forgive the introduction, the concave part of the oil is made to receive the pressure of the oil, dilating it facilitates the seal on the tree.
so I would climb it inside.
apart from that, I wouldn't recommend a student to mount a tipped seal, he'll have to account for the prof.
cacciatorino
Guest
I have perfected the design, miserable! :biggrin: sorry but on the home computer I only paint.... .
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sampom
Guest
Shit! but you must admit that you have an enviable mastery:tongue::biggrin:.
However, ste8 had already correctly turned it into the inside.
greetings
Marco:smile:
cacciatorino
Guest
if you hold down shift, paint makes horizontal or vertical lines.... :wink: